A few weeks ago, I was on set in New York shooting the Louis Vuitton Women’s Fall-Winter 2023 collection for our August/September issue when I first saw Vuitton’s new handbag for the fall season — and I was obsessed. A bag that certainly adheres to the Louis Vuitton design codes while also feeling incredibly modern and cool, the GO-14 bag is an exquisite creation marrying the visionary mind of Nicolas Ghesquière, the brand’s Women’s Artistic Director, with the artistry of historical trunk-making secrets, resulting in a bag that encapsulates the Maison’s legacy and innovation. Reintroduced this year with a distinctive twist—the elegant malletage pattern—the GO-14 embarks on a new chapter, encapsulating both a beginning and a culmination.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
The GO-14 bag traces its origins back to Ghesquière’s inaugural collection in October 2014. Its name, GO-14, cryptically encodes “Ghesquière October 2014,” marking the momentous occasion when it first graced the runway as part of Louis Vuitton’s new creative direction. For its 2023 revival, the GO-14 carries a unique distinction: the introduction of malletage.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
The malletage technique, reminiscent of the meticulous craftsmanship that once adorned Louis Vuitton’s historic trunks, adds a touch of history and sophistication to the bag. Characterized by an intricate crisscross pattern, malletage was ingeniously employed to secure documents within trunks during travel. Nicolas Ghesquière’s fascination with this timeless innovation led to its revival in his inaugural collection, allowing the heritage to flourish anew: “There are some universal codes that exist solely in Louis Vuitton. It was about reappropriating and transposing them into a new setting.” The malletage design language has since become an emblematic signature, weaving a narrative thread that connects the past with the present.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
In its current iteration, the GO-14 stands as an embodiment of opulence and allure. Crafted from padded lambskin, its surface is adorned with soft and elastic malletage, emphasized by elegant overstitching that accentuates the bag’s contours and plush texture. The GO-14 embraces a versatile nature, adapting effortlessly to various moods and styles. With its supple jewel chain that drapes like a precious necklace, the bag can be worn on the shoulder, across the body, or held in hand, offering a timeless accessory for every facet of a woman’s life.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Transcending beyond a handbag — and most Louis Vuitton novelties do — it symbolizes Louis Vuitton’s dedication to honoring its heritage and shaping the future with the strong foundation of the past. The malletage technique is a true test of the Maison’s artisans, requiring more than 20 intricate steps, including an impeccable approach to patina for a satin or toasted finish. Perfecting the subtle gradations of color demands an astute eye for detail. The challenge lies in the meticulous process of affixing the 17-meter-long galon trim to create the rounded malletage pattern that defines each GO-14 bag. This technique surpasses the complexity of traditional quilting and showcases the brand’s commitment to innovation and perfection.
