Oscar and Carolina
One cannot discuss New York fashion without mentioning the magnificent beauty of Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera. Once again, Oscar dreamed up a stunning Fall line of exquisite luxury that was as rich with vivid colors as it was loaded with luxe fabric and fur like astrakhan, fisher, fox, and chinchilla. It was unapologetic in its opulence, which made the clothes come off as that much more inspirational and dramatic. De la Renta demonstrated that he is still dictating the trends, with structured suit ensembles, and coats and day skirts cut at a new length for the season, hitting below the knee. And then, oh yes, there was the finale of the red-carpet-ready eveningwear gowns, topped with fur stoles, seemingly reminiscent of a decadent and romantic era of the past.
Carolina Herrera, too, has long been recognized as a discriminating-yet-elegant tastemaker, so her equally lavish Fall collection continued to provide her particular brand of splendor. From chic daywear to dramatic evening gowns. Herrera unveiled multiple looks of luxury, using materials such as cashmere, jacquard, eel, blue silver fox, silk, and wool crepe. Exceptional pieces that earned oohs and ahhs from the front rows included ensembles where her use of intricate embroidery, beading, and appliqué took center stage. And of course it wouldn’t be signature Carolina without those sleeves. For this collection they were voluminous and regal. If you are looking for dazzling grace and glamour this fall, look no further than Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta.
Yet there was nothing bland on display here, it was just gorgeous in its simplicity.
The Protégé
Perhaps the most talked about show of the week was from Marc Jacobs, as he delivered the beauty of a nostalgic collection. Gone were his usual subversive theatrics. The Wintour favorite went back to the basics, focusing solely on the clothes while presenting a refined collection with classic message. It was a successful strategy that resonated with buyers and editors alike. Jacobs created head-to-toe elegant and wearable pieces, from tailored pantsuits, to 1930s-inspired silk dresses and sheaths, to fur-laden swing coats, all predominantly in a taupe-and-gray color scheme. Yet there was nothing bland on display here, it was just gorgeous in its simplicity.
Getting Sporty
Michael Kors had similar success in simplicity, as he continued to do what he does best by designing sophisticated sportswear that is refreshingly free of complication in its structure and fabrication, yet still maintains a sense of relaxed luxury. Even Elie Tahari opted for sportier pieces over his usual barrage of cocktail numbers, as did collections from ADAM and Ports 1961, both of which excelled in their respective layered knitwear.
