Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
Since the announcement of Alessandro Michele’s departure from the luxury Italian fashion house, many questions have arisen; who would be appointed as their new creative director, and which design direction would they take? What is to be of Harry Styles and Jared Leto’s wardrobe? And would Gucci Twinsburg be the swan song of Alessandro’s tenure? Many of these were (somewhat) answered last week during the Milan Menswear presentation created by Gucci’s Design studio.
Similarly, when Michele was first appointed as creative director, it was under the circumstance of Frida Giannini’s departure, leaving him with only a few days to prepare the Men’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection, the first glimpse of his vision of Gucci, a smart, quirky and chic reinvention that captured many of us. As a result, a characteristic aesthetic netizen would begin to call Gucci-isms.
The last time Gucci held a menswear presentation was in January 2020, right before the lockdowns caused by COVID-19, with the house opting for a combined Men’s and Women’s collection presented during fashion week. Three years later, and with an absent Creative Director, Gucci Menswear has returned to the Milan runway with the Design Studio, who collaborated to create the collection, taking a bow.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
In the theatre, when one actor cannot perform, the remaining ones must improvise and collaborate as a group to continue because, literally and metaphorically, the show must go on. This is what Gucci explores here, an act of improvisation and collaboration. When asked to improvise on the spot, creatives tend to access and activate their crafts intuition, amplified by their curiosity about devised ideas. Ultimately, this collection combines diverse visions, inspirations, talents, and skilled craftsmen who share the same house, all coming together to paint an image of the aesthetics of improvisation.
As a result, we see new styles and techniques introduced, such as a new lacquered interpretation of the house’s coated monogram canvas dyed in vibrant colors and soft pastels seen throughout the show. This textile, named “Crystal GG” for its sheen – is mainly seen in ready-to-wear, bags, and shoes.
Although the Design Studio has been working in collaboration, there are still hints of Gucci-isms, references to archive collections, and house codes throughout the collection, as well as new introductions explored by the team; most notably, an oversized reinterpretation of the Jackie bag softened in construction and adorned with the Piston Lock, initially created by Tom Ford for Gucci, in faded pastel crocodile editions. At the same time, leather motorcycling garments pay tribute to archival pieces from the early 2000s.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
For every major brand, the transition period between creative directors is not easy, given that there is a certain brand notion and expectation from the public. The almost decade-long maximalist camp exploration led by Michele defined Gucci for a younger generation, but historically speaking, only defines one of many: the Gucci Family, Tom Ford, Alessandra Facchinetti, and Frida Giannini. The Fall/Winter 2023 Menswear writes a new chapter that will form Gucci for a new generation — this is the beginning of an exciting new era.
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