Iron Chef Takes on Napa

Few can utter Napa Valley without conjuring impressions of a cool, comfortable temperate climate, rolling hills of planted vineyards, and a glass of the finest wine within steps of the grapes it originates from. But sushi? Not so much. Yet this countryside, infamous for its viticulture and notorious restaurants, has a new destination to add to the epicurious’ palate. World-famous Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto has embraced Wine Country, finding a home for his new restaurant, Morimoto Napa.

Selecting this West Coast outpost as Morimoto’s newest locale was an easy choice for the restaurant team. Morimoto’s long-time business partner Mark Stone states, “I think the chef is on record as saying that Napa is a culinary center. Food and wine are really important [here].” Situated in downtown Napa’s pristine riverfront, this modern Japanese restaurant changes your perception of wine country cuisine. Though Napa doesn’t typically elicit thoughts of Asian fare, that discernment is all right with Morimoto. “I want a challenge here. No one expects Japanese in Napa,” he says. But everybody loves it. Morimoto has received quite the reception from the local foodies, and San Franciscans have made the one-hour trip up to Napa just to dine at the restaurant.

Despite the oriental influence, the Morimoto team vows to stay true to the Napa region and support the local businesses. “When we first got here, we checked out a lot of restaurants, met a lot of the chefs, and tried to develop relationships with the local farmers,” says Jeffrey Lunak, Morimoto’s executive chef.

“There is a tremendous amount of great local produce,” Stone says. “We get a lot of products—not just the fruits and vegetables—from local purveyors. A huge percentage of the things that don’t come from Japan come from within miles of the restaurant.”

At the same time, it was important for Morimoto to stay honest to his roots. “I am not just doing Japanese. I am doing Morimoto, ” he says. Stone adds, “The chef’s philosophy is that all the restaurants are distinctive and different from each other. There are signature dishes that carry over from one to the other, but he wants them to all have their own character that is particular to that location.”

The result is a culinary collision of Japanese and Californian fare. From the exhaustive sushi menu to the unique and quirkily named entrees—Angry Chicken and Duck Duck Goose—the menu represents Morimoto’s cuisine while simultaneously pays homage to the restaurant’s hometown, with Napa specials like the sea urchin carbonara (udon noodle, bacon, urchin, shallot) and fig tempura (fried figs with peanut butter, foie gras sauce).

The urchin carbonara along with the spicy king crab appetizer and crispy whole fish are the restaurant’s best sellers. When Morimoto discovers I ordered the crispy whole fish, he laughs and tells me he is surprised he heard no complaints about the head—and eyeballs—that remain tact on the fish. As for Morimoto’s favorite dish, he can’t answer. “People ask me this all of the time. I have 48 items. It’s like if you have 10 kids, and I ask which kid is your favorite.”

Of course being in the center of viticultural excellence means you cannot disregard the wines. Their menu boasts a plethora of Napa Valley’s best grapes. In addition, the sake menu hosts around 30 varieties, giving diners the opportunity to have a true East meets West liquid experience.

Napa’s spirit isn’t just reflected in the menu but also in the ambiance. Organic sculptural elements, which are actually 100-year-old grape veins, zig-zag throughout the walls in the 180-seat restaurant that bathes in shades of gray, beige, and bronze. This is a true testament to not just the history and longevity of the Napa wine culture, but also of Morimoto’s dedication to its influence.

Dining at Morimoto is so much more than just a great meal experience. The entry hall hosts a Morimoto store of everything from prepared foods and sashimi-grade fish to cookbooks and kitchenware. A fresh fish and meat counter situates along the octopus mural wall. The restaurant design allows for an open kitchen where lucky guests can sneak peeks of the famous chef at work. The spacious layout generates a lively atmosphere; the outdoor dining patio, which overlooks the Napa River, is perfection on warm Napa nights. The bar and lounge are both constructed of natural stone and wood elements while pops of quirky mustard yellow arm chairs and plush sofas add a touch of playfulness and Tokyo to the restaurant’s décor.

But there was a prior time when Morimoto would rather slide into home plate than prepare dinner plates. He wanted to be a professional baseball player in Japan’s major leagues, but a shoulder injury sidelined him indefinitely. Luckily for the culinary world, Morimoto went on to pursue his other childhood dream as a sushi chef. After working in several restaurants, he joined Nobu restaurant in New York City. But it was the Japan’s Iron Chef show and the American spinoff that turned Morimoto into a household name. The experience was “tough and a lot of pressure,” he says. “[It was] always a new challenge.”

Since then, Morimoto is joining the ranks of restaurant imperialism. He opened his own restaurant, Morimoto, in Philadelphia in 2002 and a second one in New York City in 2006. Napa is his third.

Whether at home or in the restaurant, Morimoto surrounds himself with people who respect and admire his vigor for culinary perfection. “I think like most people who are successful, he is a perfectionist and very demanding,” says Stone, “but it means that the results are worth it, because of that attention to detail and rigor and professionalism. He is also just incredibly creative. It’s a wonderful combination to have that creativity and discipline, and to me, they make spectacular results.” And according to Chef Jeffrey, “That’s why his restaurants are successful. It’s not just luck; it’s hard work.”

With such resilient support and impeccable culinary repertoire, it is easy to see why Morimoto is such a superstar. Napa opens its arms to this brilliant chef and entrepreneur and the talent and unique perspective he brings to the Bay Area.

However, don’t count on the restaurateur to fix you up something palatable in his own kitchen. “I don’t cook anything in my home,” the Iron Chef confesses. “Only my wife cooks.”

Morimoto Napa is located at 610 Main St., Napa, CA.
For reservations call 707.252.1600 or visit www.morimotonapa.com.