Those of us who have spent any time at all in Paris are familiar with L’Entrecôte, the fabulous French mono-dish brasseries that serve only their signature dish of steak-frites, special sauce and salad. There are a handful of L’Entrecôte restaurants around Paris and now the world and as much time is spent debating over which is the original (hint: it’s the one in Port Mailliot) as what is in their secret 21-ingredient sauce. In Paris, locations operating under the name “la Relais de l’Entrecôte” or “Relais de Venise,” are owned by decedents of the Gineste de Saurs family who pioneered the concept in 1959, but the quality can vary greatly.
The truth is – as long as the meat is succulent and served with a greenish tarragon-heavy sauce, crack-addictive fries and a crisp green salad, it really doesn’t matter. Brickell’s brand new L’Entrecote de Paris hits all the notes perfectly and sticks to the concept by only offering l’entrecôte – with one exception – you can get a larger salad with goat cheese just in case you happen to bring a vegetarian along. There is, however, an extensive dessert menu with many French choices, such as creme Anglaise and tarte tatin with vanilla ice cream. With warm French brasserie decor and a $26 prix-fixe for their 9 oz steak, salad and fries ($19 for 7 oz at lunch) it is a welcome addition to Brickell’s offerings and quite a good rendition rendition indeed. Just don’t ask what’s in the sauce – they won’t tell you!
1053 SE First Ave, Miami