Fashion Month Spring/Summer 2027: The Best Looks From New York, London, Milan and Paris

Fashion month ran from a gallery in Tribeca to the Cour Carrée du Louvre, and the clothes that traveled best had one thing in common. They took a house’s most famous idea and made it lighter. A trench cut for summer, a tuxedo shirt reduced to almost nothing, a gown held on by its own weight. These are the Spring/Summer 2027 looks Haute Living kept from all four cities.

New York opened the month on September 9, London followed, Milan ran the last week of September, and Paris closed it on October 6. The season’s designers disagreed on almost everything except a preference for clothes a woman can move in, with the spectacle concentrated in a single exit.

New York

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Michael Kors Collection

Michael Kors showed in the Museum of Modern Art’s sculpture garden on the morning of September 11, with Carmen Herrera and Alexander Calder as his references. Look 9 is a bright green micro skirt suit with a small rounded collar, as mod as anything he has sent out. It is made for lunch at the Modern, which was a short walk from the seats.

KHAITE

Photo Credit: Hanna Tveite for Khaite

Catherine Holstein marked her label’s tenth year at the Brooklyn Storehouse in the Navy Yard on September 13. Look 1 opened the show on Kaia Gerber: a white bra top with an ultra high-waisted leather skirt, its back split to show corsetry Holstein said is done entirely by hand. Quiet luxury, at its most considered.

CAROLINA HERRERA

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Carolina Herrera

Wes Gordon marked the house’s 45th anniversary at the David H. Koch Theater on September 14, with close to 30,000 yellow tulips lining the runway. Look 16 turns Andy Warhol’s portrait of Carolina Herrera into an embroidered mini shift, worked in thread and appliqué with the Warhol Foundation. The image had never been licensed before, and proceeds support the Foundation.

RALPH LAUREN

Ralph Lauren opened his September 9 show, held at the Jack Shainman Gallery in Tribeca, in head-to-toe white.

London

ERDEM

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Erdem

Erdem Moralıoğlu showed in Camden on the afternoon of September 20, drawing on Barbette, the 1920s trapeze artist. Look 43 is a blush robe coat trimmed in feathers, cut with a high slit and a soft collar. It is showgirl glamour pared back to something a woman could actually leave the house in.

BURBERRY

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Burberry

Daniel Lee closed London Fashion Week on September 21 at Chelsea College of Arts, collaborating with Celia Birtwell on the prints. The trench, the house’s own icon, came in slinky silk with a gathered, puffball hem and full sleeves. This pink one is the best example: a coat built for rain, made light enough for summer.

SIMONE ROCHA

Simone Rocha showed at the Old Bailey on September 20 and layered a lavender men’s shirt over a black and coffee ballgown skirt.

McQUEEN

Seán McGirr brought McQueen back to the London schedule on September 20 at Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, and Karen Elson walked in a harness of recycled silver by Shaun Leane.

Milan

FENDI

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Fendi

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear show for Fendi, on September 23, ran on a mirrored set after Luciano Fabro’s Mirror Cube. Look 6 pushes her lingerie dressing as far as it goes: a pale mint bra top and lace-trimmed shorts under a long coat with a dark fur collar. It is the debut-season tuxedo shirt, cut down to almost nothing.

GUCCI

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci

Demna’s Gucci show on September 25 was built as a store, staged inside the Allianz MiCo. Look 82 is a long white gown, softly draped and cut with a high slit, from the run of evening looks that closed the show.

PRADA

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showed on September 22, and the idea of the season was crystal embroidery set into the Velcro closures of wrap skirts.

BOTTEGA VENETA

Louise Trotter’s third collection, shown September 26, included a tangerine scoop-neck leather midi, Bottega leather made light enough for summer.

GIORGIO ARMANI

Silvana Armani showed the “Evolution” collection at Armani/Teatro on the morning of September 27. Look 1 was a black and ivory pin-dot double-breasted jacket with wide ivory trousers.

LORO PIANA

Loro Piana presented Spring/Summer 2027 inside the Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense at Palazzo Brera, as an installation rather than a runway.

Paris

CHANEL

Photo Credit: Copyright CHANEL

Matthieu Blazy marked his first anniversary at Chanel on October 5 at the Grand Palais. Look 1 opened on a sheer white slip dress with a Lemarié corsage, carried with Gabrielle Chanel’s own 2.55, borrowed from the Patrimoine archive. Model Dyanira Hurbuscher walked it back out to close the show.

DIOR

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Jonathan Anderson showed at the Tuileries on September 29. Look 5 pairs an ivory jacket and its black shawl collar with wide metallic silver trousers and a black shoulder bag. It is his loosened New Look, cut for a woman who would rather not wear a ball skirt to lunch.

SAINT LAURENT

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello’s tenth-anniversary show at the Trocadéro, on the evening of September 29, turned every Saint Laurent archetype to gold. Look 14, a sleeveless knee-length gold lace dress with drop earrings, is that idea at its most wearable. Guipure lace ran through the gilded collection.

BALENCIAGA

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Balenciaga

Pierpaolo Piccioli titled his October 1 show at the Tennis Club de Paris “Les Coraux de la Liberté.” Look 21 covers the body in clustered orange organza flowers, filled with compressed air, over plain cream trousers. It is his whole argument, couture worn as everyday dress, in one look.

LOEWE

Photo Credit: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed their third Loewe collection at the Château de Vincennes on October 2. Look 50 rebuilds a basketball jersey as a yellow and tangerine slip dress, fringed and beaded along its tie-dye edge. It is the clearest read yet on where the duo is taking the house.

For more of Haute Living’s fashion month coverage, see Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Burberry and Loewe.