The Fendi Spring/Summer 2027 Show Was Quintessentially Maria Grazia Chiuri

Maria Grazia Chiuri opened her Spring/Summer 2027 collection for Fendi with a line from an E.E. Cummings poem projected into the atmosphere of the show before a single look appeared: I like my body when it is with your body. It was not a subtle statement of intent. It was a direct one — and the collection that followed delivered on it completely.

Photo Credit: Fendi

The set was a runway lined with mirrors, pulling from Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi — Mirror Cube — a work that does not let you disappear into observation but forces you into it, finding yourself and everyone around you in the reflection. Chiuri used it as a provocation: fashion has always claimed a relationship with the body, but she wanted to make that relationship the subject, not the subtext. The result was a collection that felt genuinely alive.

Photo Credit: Fendi

The starting point was undergarments — for men and women both — that lightweight interstitial layer that has always existed beneath everything else and now moved to the surface. Chiuri exalted it with lace, embroidery, and color that expressed a body comfortable with pleasure and irony in equal measure. The cultural anchor was Raffaella Carrà, the Italian pop icon whose stage costumes and complete personal authority over desire and independence made her the right reference for exactly this kind of subversion. Where Carrà asserted herself, these clothes assert the body wearing them.

Photo Credit: Fendi

The layering that followed was genuinely without hierarchy. Silk against animal print. Velvet against parchment. Punk against bourgeois. Glossy and matte within the same look. Dressing gowns taken out onto the street. Lace and embroidery and intarsia shifting lengths and weights and consistencies from one exit to the next. Jewel shoes at the close. Men and women dressing in the same register, the same vocabulary, without gendered division — clothes as a second skin porous to emotions, as Chiuri described it, rather than a set of rules about who gets to wear what.

It was one of the stronger shows of Milan Fashion Week — clear in its references, specific in its execution, and genuinely engaged with what fashion can say about bodies and the people inside them right now.

For more from fashion month this week, see Prada’s Spring/Summer 2027 Collection and Inside Burberry’s Summer 2027 Show.