By Lauren Price
Master chef Joël Robuchon has done it again. Nothing less than magnificent, this three Michelin star chef’s latest outpost delivers dazzling dishes and we’re happy to report that the menu offers some of Robuchon’s most glorious signature dishes.
Like his restaurants in Paris, Monaco, Vegas and Tokyo (and soon, London), there are 20 stools to choose from at the kitchen-facing, U-shaped counter (think sushi bar, but taller) and 30 banquette-ed tables all well-placed in a gorgeous silky black and rich burgundy room that comes courtesy of collaboration between the award-winning architect I.M. Pei and one of France’s best interior designers, Pierre-Yves Rochon.
Offering a “tapas-like” menu, diners will be happy to know that they can sample a full range Robuchon’s often unexpected pairings such as a yummy potato salad with foie gras and Alsatian pastrami; lobster nestled tenderly inside a turnip ravioli-and a impeccably layered foie gras served with caramelized-to-perfection smoked eel. But nothing on this glorious menu is more tempting than the Pommes Puree Truffee. A dreamy, creamy dish of what is probably equal parts butter, cream and perfectly whisked mashed potatoes served in a copper pot, this creation is topped with a generous showing of shaved white truffles. The well-made gazpacho comes with crispy golden croutons and slivers of fresh almonds and the steak tartare is surprisingly (and spectacularly spiced) is served with crispy hand-cut fries. Sliced to order, the Kobe beef rib-eye is amazingly tender.
Pastry chef Kazutoshi Narita’s desserts (his Robuchon stints include Vegas and Tokyo) are exceptional, but we’re particularly partial to Le Chocolat Noir-a warm and powerful chocolate that oozes into a Tonka bean-laced semi-sweet coffee mousse. Le Sucre, a violet and lychee sugar sphere served with velvety milk ice cream and wild rose and blackberry coulis is equally amazing.
With occasional visits from Rubochon, Executive Chef Yosuke Suga, with a pedigree that includes working side by side with the master chef since 1998, runs the show.
As expected, the luxe service is impeccable and incredibly friendly.
57 East 57th Street, 212.758.5700
www.fourseasons.com
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