Christopher Esber’s Spring/Summer 2027 Collection Finds Drama in the Smallest Details
Christopher Esber's Spring Summer 2027 collection, presented in an underground Paris theatre, finds its language in design details.
On October 6, 2026, Christopher Esber presented Spring Summer 2027 in an underground Paris theatre beneath an oval skylight, across a floor of leopard carpet. The collection begins with the smallest possible things: a pocket square, a cuff, a belt, a stud. Enlarged, displaced, and reinterpreted, these familiar details become integral to the construction of garments, shaping how fabric is held, draped, and released against the body.
Photo Credit: Christopher Esber
A rock and roll sensibility runs through the tailoring. Proportions are elongated. Cuffs multiply, exploding from the sleeves of sharply constructed jackets in a way that is simultaneously exaggerated and precise. The A-line skirt becomes a study in proportion and disruption, reworked with high splits and drapes that wrap, collapse, and sink into its classic structure. Belting moves between decoration and construction, extending beyond the waist to shape drape and create new formations within the tailoring itself. Original studding from unused 1950s stock brings weight and precision to the fluidity of cloth.
Photo Credit: Christopher Esber
Lace borrows from the language of menswear. A printed pocket square provides the starting point, its diamond motif enlarged to become a dress and reinterpreted in ceramic-coated lace that retains its fluidity. Sheath tops are slashed to reveal layers of fine georgette beneath, exposing what feels like the internal architecture of a deconstructed blazer. Collars and lapels are similarly morphed and abstracted across dresses and tailoring. Lace trims and transparent lingerie jersey are pulled against the body, creating abstracted lines and illusions across the silhouette. Bandeaux and bra straps are integrated into the garments themselves, bringing lingerie codes directly into their construction.
Photo Credit: Christopher Esber
Working closely with artist Anna Studeli, collage works are translated onto satin-backed PVC. Their contrasting imagery carries the tension of the season, sitting between the familiar and the abstract. Metallic turquoise lace floats around the body in cocooning forms, while gowns are cut away and shortened at the front, further disrupting familiar proportions. Leather is shredded, fragmented, and pieced back together to form jackets and reconstructed details across dresses.
Photo Credit: Christopher Esber
The show’s creative team included styling by Ilona Hamer, beauty by Filomena for NARS, skin by ANUA, hair by Scott Sloan for L’Oreal Professional, nails by Mélanie Gracia for Freeky Nails, casting by Evelien Joos, musical composition by MODE-F, set design by Jean Baptiste Verguin, and production by TwoTwenty.
The Christopher Esber Spring Summer 2027 collection draws on the small language of dress — pocket squares, cuffs, belts, and studs — enlarged, displaced, and reinterpreted as the construction principles behind each garment, exploring how a small detail can determine the shape and movement of an entire piece. The collection was presented in an underground Paris theatre beneath an oval skylight, across a floor of leopard carpet, on October 6, 2026. Christopher Esber worked closely with artist Anna Studeli, whose collage works were translated onto satin-backed PVC throughout the collection. The collection features ceramic-coated lace, fine georgette, transparent lingerie jersey, satin-backed PVC, metallic turquoise lace, and shredded and reconstructed leather, alongside original studding from unused 1950s stock. Christopher Esber is an Australian fashion designer known for his considered, architectural approach to womenswear. His collections consistently explore the intersection of structure and fluidity, tailoring and sensuality.Frequently Asked Questions
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For more of Haute Living’s Paris Fashion Week coverage, see Loewe Spring Summer 2027 and Balenciaga Summer 2027.
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