Miami’s Flair for Food & Wine

In the hype of the South Beach Wine & Food Festival, too often our local chefs are swept aside in the fervor to gawk over more telegenic personalities like Emeril Lagasse, Rachael Ray, Guy Fieri, Paula Deen, and Sandra Lee. But after all of the Food Network stars have departed, Miamians will be back to dining at local hot spots where “star” chefs sweat over their stoves seven nights a week. Every night in Miami is a food festival, actually, with the bounty of talent that we have from the Design District’s Michael Schwartz to South Beach’s Sean Brasel. This year, however, it is heartening to see several of our homegrown toques receiving some love at SBWFF. In fact, the Festival will be teeming with local chefs, from the highly anticipated Burger Bash to BubbleQ and Best of the Best.

At Burger Bash, Thursday, February 25, bragging rights are at stake as meat mavens from around the country compete to prepare the best beef patties. The event is held on the sand in front of the Ritz-Carlton, South Beach and is hosted by Rachael Ray. Local entrants include Sean Brasel (Meat Market) and Michael Schwartz (Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink), who are going head to head with the so-called Big Guns like David Burke, Rocco DiSpirito, Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, and Stephanie Izard (who won Top Chef several seasons ago). So, what can we expect from Miami’s masters? In his first Burger Bash appearance, Brasel, who works with steak all day at Meat Market on Lincoln Road, will be making sliders with Gouda tater tots. The secret to his success? Not overworking the beef.

Another popular event is BubbleQ, where the Perrier-Jouët Champagne flows and the barbecue is decidedly gourmet. Each year, the smell of barbecue permeates the Delano’s beach area as foodies nosh on grilled delicacies. Presented by Emeril Lagasse, this year’s incarnation is being held on Friday, February 26. Miami is well represented at BubbleQ with local participants like Jonathan Eismann (Pacific Time), Cindy Hutson (Ortanique on the Mile), Howie Kleinberg (Bulldog Barbecue), Steve Martorano (Café Martorano), Allen Susser (Chef Allen’s) and Norman Van Aken (of the soon-to-debut Norman’s 180). Van Aken will be preparing a “mollete” sandwich, which he describes as a “deep-fried, picadillo-stuffed bun with secret spices.” Hutson, who is known for more delicate fare, will be grilling cedar-planked wild salmon with chipotle aioli and grilled corn and black bean salsa.

It’s all about female empowerment at the Dolce Brunch at the Delano Hotel with Chef Michelle Bernstein (Michy’s and Sra. Martinez) and Pastry Chef Hedy Goldsmith (Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink). This savory and sweet event, sponsored by Tiffany & Co., was new to SBWFF last year. It takes place on Saturday, February 27, and Bernstein will be making a feast for hungry revelers, including tuna carpaccio with foie gras “snow,” soy, apples and chervil; creamy polenta with poached egg and lobster; and fried chicken and waffles. If that’s not decadent enough, Goldsmith will be sweetening up the afternoon with local Homestead strawberry trifle with lemon verbena cream and drop biscuits. “The key is to use the freshest ingredients to maximize flavor,” Hedy says of utilizing berries from nearby Homestead.

For all of these chefs, being local (and using local ingredients) is an important aspect of their participation in SBWFF. Andrea Curto-Randazzo, of Talula, who will be tantalizing the crowds at Best of the Best at the Fontainebleau on Friday, February 26, with meatball sliders with Sunday sauce and ricotta cheese, notes that, “Naturally, there’s a lot of focus on the national chefs and TV personalities, but the local chefs benefit from that attention too. It brings business to Miami and lets people know that we are a culinary destination, too.” Adds Hutson, “It is so important to be recognized here. This long weekend boosts our business and allows our local patrons to be proud of the rising culinary scene happening here.”

Van Aken, who is known both nationally and locally, sees the necessity of having chefs from all levels of fame. “If the festival and the organizers ever veer too far away from including those of us who hail from this zip code, it will become something that will wither in popularity,” he explains. “However, the South Florida populace loves to see the gathering and camaraderie of ‘local chefs’ and ‘visiting chefs’ on pretty much equal footing. Longevity is founded on loyalty, no?”

Being a part of the Festival is also motivating for many of the participants. “Since the event is in South Beach, local chefs feel so much more involved and excited about attending this type of event because we are all in our own backyard with such a national spotlight,” comments Brasel. “It inspires me to know that there will be foodies from all around the world here in Miami during that week. This alone will let me create in-house restaurant specials that only true foodies would appreciate.” Adds Bernstein, “We get to host so many amazing people here for that weekend. Our staffs are inspired by the food, and by the talent that comes to town. I’ve always loved the festival and feel privileged to be a part of it. And I get to rub elbows with the very best in the business.”

Ultimately, Miamians are the real winners of South Beach’s abundant Wine & Food Festival, whether they are indulging in specialties prepared by their neighborhood toques or sampling the cuisine of celebrated chefs from around the country. Bon appétit!

South Beach Wine & Food Festival
February 25 to 28, 2010
www.sobefest.com