Saint Laurent Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 Collection Explores Subtle Sensuality, Desire & Escapism
This week, Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello presented the Saint Laurent Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection during Men’s Paris Fashion Week at Bourse de Commerce, anchored around “clinamen,” an immersive, circular installation reminiscent of that of a swimming pool by artist Céleste Boursier-Mougenot.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
For this collection, Vaccarello showcased a refined yet rebellious take on his signature tailoring. He noted this show pays tribute “to a lost generation, to the artists –Stanton, Angus, Ellis – who gave a face to silent desires.”
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
A recurring theme for Vaccarello seems to play on the ideas surrounding seduction. This collection specifically hones in on suspended moments, where escape becomes elegance, and desire becomes a language through sculpted silhouettes. “Inspired by a time when desire was style, when beauty served as a shield against emptiness, the collection explores this subtle sensuality, that fragile moment when one dresses as much to reveal oneself as to conceal,” cites the collection notes.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
The ambiguous collection presents a sense of elegance through light styles where shapes float gracefully rather than clinging to one another, designed for the clarity of daylight. Models make their way down the runway each wearing a pair of oversized sunglasses anchoring their looks of refined staples like expertly tailored button-ups, cinching at the waist, with larger-than-life extended shoulders, a classic style for the House.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent
Key materials like silk and nylon traced each body with an elevated ease. The color palette transforms Saint Laurent’s classic office-like suiting into a wardrobe for warmer days and sunshine getaways featuring neutrals punctuated with vibrant tones like sand, sale, pale ochre, dry moss, pool blue, and bright yellows, inspired by Paris and Fire Island. A few models were seen wearing tailored shorts similar to ones worn by a young Yves Saint Laurent. These specifically were shown not to pay homage to Yves, but rather to show a recurrent consistency and continuity for the House and its decisive codes.