Josiah Citrin, In Pursuit of Excellence: 25 Years, Two Stars, and a Fire That Still Burns

Photo Credit: John Troxell

JOSIAH CITRIN IS ONE OF LOS ANGELES’ DEFINING CULINARY VOICES — A TWO MICHELIN-STARRED  chef and restaurateur with more than 25 years in the game. His signature philosophy, “In pursuit of excellence,” runs through every one of his concepts, from Michelin starred fine-dining temples like Mélisse and Citrin in Santa Monica to more laid-back, fire-fueled spots like Charcoal Venice and Augie’s on Main, which has expanded from the Staples Center to other major arenas across the country. He also co-owns the iconic Dear John’s and its waterfront partner, Dear Jane’s, with longtime friend Hans Röckenwagner.

Today, Citrin’s world spans high and low, indulgent and approachable. Whether he’s reinventing the tasting menu or grilling over live fire, his cooking is defined by precision, soul, and a deep love of California ingredients. He’s a fixture at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, and his palate is famously encyclopedic — he can tell you exactly where, when, and how a tomato was grown just by tasting it.

Photo Credit: Wonho Frank Lee

Mélisse just had a major moment last year. What does this milestone anniversary mean to you personally and professionally?
Celebrating Mélisse’s 25^th anniversary last year was emotional. It made me pause and think about everything that’s gone into this place — the long hours, the risks, the growth, and the relationships built along the way. As a chef and founder, it’s more than just a number; it’s a reminder of how far we’ve come and how much the space has meant to so many people. It’s not just about the food — it’s about creating something lasting, something that people feel connected to.

In a city where restaurants often come and go, what do you think has allowed Mélisse to evolve while remaining so distinctly timeless?
I think it’s our commitment to staying true to who we are, while never standing still. We’ve never chased trends — we’ve listened, adapted, refined — but always with intention.

Was there ever a moment you considered stepping away from Mélisse?
There have definitely been moments over the years when I questioned everything, including whether I could keep going at the pace this kind of work demands. But even in those moments, walking away never really felt like an option. Mélisse is a part of me. The DNA of this place is so intertwined with who I am that stepping away would feel like leaving a piece of myself behind.

Photo Credit: Stan Lee

Is the pursuit of Michelin stars still energizing for you, or has your goal changed?
In the beginning, earning Michelin stars was about precision — about proving I belonged. Over time, my idea of excellence has shifted. Now it’s about soul, intention, and the emotion behind the food. The stars still push us to stay sharp, but they’re not the reason we cook. What drives me now is creating something honest, something that resonates. Recognition is beautiful — but it’s the byproduct of passion, not the purpose.

You trained under strict French masters in Paris. What’s one rule you’ve proudly broken, and one you’ll never bend?
Training in Paris taught me discipline and structure — lessons I still carry. But one rule I’ve proudly broken is the idea that kitchens have to be silent and rigid to be serious. My kitchens are lively — there’s always conversation flowing between us. The rule I’ll never bend? Respect for ingredients. That’s non-negotiable.

Has your pursuit of excellence ever come at a cost? And if so, what did it teach you about your own limits — or lack thereof?
Yes, absolutely, it’s come at a cost. There were moments when I missed time with family, pushed my body too hard, or lost sight of balance. But those moments taught me a lot. They showed me I have a deep well of endurance, but also that limits are real — and if you ignore them too long, they’ll catch up with you. Over time, I’ve learned that excellence isn’t just about how far you can push — it’s also about knowing when to pause, delegate, and take care of yourself so you can keep going for the long run.

Photo Credit: Stan Lee

There are three ovens at Charcoal and you have multiple grills in your backyard. Where did your obsession with fire begin?
My obsession with fire probably started before I even realized it — there’s something raw and honest about watching food transform over flame. In haute cuisine, everything is so refined and controlled, but fire pushes back. It demands instinct and presence. It’s not just a cooking method — it’s a mindset.

Do you think luxury dining has gotten more casual?
I think it’s become more conscious. It’s less about formality and more about intention — where ingredients come from, how the experience makes you feel, what story the food tells. At Mélisse, we moved away from white tablecloths and created an environment that feels more intimate and immersive. You’re listening to vinyl on a McIntosh sound system while eating a multi-course tasting menu — there’s soul in that.

As AI and automation become more common in kitchens, where do you see the line between precision and soul in cooking?
The line is at intent and interpretation. AI can execute, assist, and even inspire, but it can’t feel. The soul of cooking — the intuition, creativity, spontaneity, and emotional connection still comes from the human hand and heart.

What’s one non-food passion that most directly influences how you run your kitchen or design a menu? Surfing? Jazz? Architecture?
Surfing teaches timing, patience, and reading the environment — just like running a kitchen service. You can’t force a wave, and you can’t force a dish to be ready before it’s truly there. Art brings in composition, color, and emotional storytelling. A plate isn’t just food — it’s a canvas. Music — especially jazz — has that improvisational spirit. It’s when you riff that the magic happens.

Photo Credit: Stan Lee

What’s next for you?
I think it’s about legacy now — sharing the craft with the next generation. Long term, I’m planning to eventually slow down a bit and enjoy life in the South of France. Cooking for the love of it, not the pressure. Letting life unfold, one glass of wine, one sunset at a time.

You’ve done it all in terms of haute cuisine, so what does luxury mean to you now?
Luxury to me isn’t just about caviar and truffles, it’s about creating an experience that stays with you forever. I want every guest to feel seen, cared for, and treated like royalty. True luxury is in the details, the intention, and the emotion it leaves behind.

To you, what is the greatest luxury in life and why?
The greatest luxury in life is time — time spent with the people you love, in a place that means something. After losing my son Augustin at 23, I came to truly understand what matters most. It’s not the accolades or the success, it’s the memories we create with those closest to us. That’s the kind of richness nothing else can match.