Dior SS26: Jonathan Anderson’s Womenswear Debut Ushers in a New Era

The anticipation was palpable: Jonathan Anderson’s first womenswear collection for Dior was one of the season’s most closely watched debuts. He arrived at the house carrying both the weight of its history and the opportunity to shape its next chapter. The balance was clear from the start. Anderson showed reverence for legacy while also presenting a vision firmly set on the future.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

Before the runway began, a mirrored prism hanging over the space lit up with the words: “Do you dare enter the house of Dior?” Then Adam Curtis’s film fractured the house’s history into flashes—silhouettes, archival moments, and glimpses of past creative directors. It served as a cinematic reminder of the legacy Anderson was stepping into. With scenography by Luca Guadagnino and Stefano Baisi, the installation cast Dior as both memory and spectacle. As a result, the stage was set for a debut that looked back at history while also moving toward reinvention.

The collection opened with a white dress that curved into a sculptural bell shape, its crisp lines anchored by oversized bows. What followed was a play of contrasts: tailored jackets cropped to the waist, transparent lace dresses edged with spikes of fabric at the hips, and jersey gowns twisted like modern-day togas. At the same time, flashes of denim and floral blouses grounded the fantasy in everyday life.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Dior

The house’s icons were not forgotten. The Bar Jacket returned with shrunken proportions and a spark of irreverence. Meanwhile, lace dresses evoked Dior’s 1952 Cigale silhouette, reimagined with a newfound lightness. Oversized origami hats—conjured by milliner Stephen Jones—nodded to the theatricality of the Galliano era. In this way, the collection reminded the audience how Dior’s past continues to echo on its runways.

By the finale, Anderson had established a vision of Dior that felt both intimate and grand, playful and precise. A star-studded front row—including Jennifer Lawrence, Jenna Ortega, Charlize Theron, Greta Lee, Taylor Russell, and Rosalía—rose in a standing ovation. The message was unmistakable: Dior is stepping into a bold new era.