The Alchemist of Gems: Ara Vartanian’s Unique Approach To Design

In the world of high jewelry, few designers bring the same level of passion, innovation, and personal connection to their craft as Ara Vartanian. Born into a family steeped in the tradition of diamonds and gems, Vartanian’s journey began not with a silver spoon, but with a deep-rooted love for the stones themselves. Over the past 22 years, he has carved a niche for himself, transforming his heritage into a bold, unconventional approach to jewelry design. From selling his car to fund his first atelier to collaborating with icons like Kate Moss, Vartanian’s story is one of resilience, creativity, and an unwavering commitment to craftsmanship. Ahead, in our exclusive interview, he opens up about his inspirations, his process, and the philosophy that drives his eponymous brand—where every piece begins with the stone and ends with a timeless work of art.

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HAUTE LIVING: Let’s begin with how you got started — You come from a family deeply involved in the world of diamonds and gems. How did this upbringing influence your decision to eventually pursue jewelry design?

ARA VARTANIAN: I founded Ara Vartanian 22 years ago, but my journey with jewelry started much earlier. I began as a designer working for my family’s company, and over time, I felt a strong desire to create my own signature designs. My designs have always centered around a personal philosophy: the stone is the most important element, and my creations are built around it. From the very beginning, I’ve worked exclusively with my own artisans, ensuring that every piece reflects my vision and craftsmanship.

When I left my family’s business, I had to sell my car and nearly everything I owned to gather enough money to buy gold and stones, starting my brand in a very small atelier. From the very beginning, all my jewelry has been made in my own atelier. It was essential for me to be deeply connected to the space where I design. This has always been a core part of my brand.

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HL: Your creations are known for their unconventional use of stones. What drives you to challenge the traditional ways of setting gemstones?

AV: I’m naturally curious about the craftsmanship behind jewelry making and have always been very involved in the process. My artisans and I form a close-knit team, and I’ve always understood that, while my role as designer is crucial, it’s just one part of the process. Each professional brings their own expertise, and it’s our collective effort that makes each piece truly exceptional.

HL: How do you find inspiration as a designer?

AV: For me, the stones always come first. I source and purchase them, then bring them to my atelier. I don’t always design the piece immediately—sometimes it can take over a year to create something inspired by a particular stone. What I realized early on in my creative journey is that my hobbies play a huge role in my design process. Many of them are connected to vintage analog equipment from the 50s, 60s, and 70s—like motorcycles and cars—which were built to last. This appreciation for durability has influenced how I approach my jewelry: each piece is handmade with care and given the proper weight to stand the test of time. These hobbies bring me a lot of excitement when I’m designing. Since I don’t necessarily create collections, I draw inspiration from the world around me—whether it’s the music I’m listening to, the art I’m admiring, or the mountains I’m hiking. All of this energy fuels my creativity and sharpens my tactile sense, which is reflected in my designs.

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HL: You compare your role as a jeweler to that of a chef. Can you elaborate on this analogy?

AV: I compare my role to chef, cause just like chefs needs to pick the right ingredients to make a special meal, I personally look for the best gems to make my jewelry.

HL: Your collaboration with supermodel Kate Moss in 2017 gained a lot of attention (as well as many celebs to follow). How did this partnership come about, and what was the creative process like?

AV: Kate Moss is a personal friend of mine, and her being a fashion icon was a huge inspiration, so I got inside her universe, and we developed together a collection that explores mysticism and esotericism.

HL: You recently launched the “Flare” collection; what was the source of inspiration? 

AV: The Flare collection captures the essence of light and transformation. Each piece is designed to surprise and delight, reflecting the beauty of sudden illumination and the intricate craftsmanship that defines our brand.

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HL: What can we expect next from Ara Vartanian? Any upcoming collaborations or new directions you’re excited about?

AV: Besides our flagship in Miami, where we have the challenge of establishing the Ara Vartanian DNA in the American market, we are very focused on making a difference. We are aware that every activity generates impact, so we are working to implement a set of positive impact practices of the company that seek, from design, to discuss the social, cultural and environmental issues of our times. 2025 will be a year of many projects and challenges that we can’t wait to share with everyone.

HL: On a personal note, how would you describe your personal style?

AV: People often say I’m a casual chic guy — but I like to feel comfortable when I’m dressing up, so I complement my look with jewelry that brings attitude. My jewelry is bold, unconventional, and luxurious, with a focus on innovative design. They’re like an extension of my style.

HL: What’s your everyday jewelry?

AV: I’m always using a fish amulet, sun pendent and a vintage Rolex. I’m also always wearing my emerald ring, which I designed. I like pieces that I can wear from work to dinner.

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HL: Current favorite piece in the collection right now?

AV: My personal favorite Ara Vartanian pieces often emerge from a specific design process. For instance, the two-finger rings were born out of my desire to create a ring with a large stone without it turning. That led me to design the double and triple finger rings, which provide stability and a unique aesthetic. Similarly, when I was working on the hook-style earrings, I aimed to incorporate a caviar stone. This inspired me to develop a technique for the hook that would ensure the earrings balanced perfectly. I love using larger stones in my designs, but this presents its own challenges in making the jewelry comfortable and symmetrical. Each piece I create reflects these exciting challenges and the innovative solutions that come with them.