City Guide, Haute Cuisine | November 29, 2021

The Hottest Restaurants In L.A. This December

City Guide, Haute Cuisine | November 29, 2021

CABOCO Caboco Photo Credit: Dylan + Jeni

After falling in love with Los Angeles in 2017, São Paulo chef Rodrigo Oliveira of Mocotó and Balaio IMS fame decided to opened his first eatery outside Brazil in the City of Angels. Caboco (a term used to describe the multicultural heritage of many Brazilians) was born. Under Preen Inc. designer Alexis Readinger’s watchful eye, the Arts District space has been infused with the warmth and energy of both the Brazilian and Californian cultures. Diners are greeted by a white, amber-lit room punctuated by colorful modernist tiles, a dining room featuring a commissioned mural by Speto, one of Brazil’s street art pioneers. Fare such as torresmo, dadinhos de tapioca (cubed cheese and tapioca), moqueca de caju (vegetable stew with cashew fruit, hearts of palm, plantain, ora-pro-nobis, tucupi and coconut broth) and a housemade carne de sol (salt-cured beef with roasted garlic and biquinho peppers) pairs beautifully with iterations of caipirinhas containing an array of fruits (such as local citrus, passionfruit and grapes) and international cocktails reimagined with cachaça, such as the O Figo Fashion (fig syrup, bitters and oak cachaça) and Mandacaru (lime juice, caju syrup, cachaça branca and salt).
1850 Industrial St, Los Angeles; cabocola.com

Caboco
Caipairinhas

Photo Credit: Dylan + Jeni

MÍRAME

Mirame Photo Credit: Rich Marchewka

It isn’t easy to find Michelin-starred Mexican cuisine in L.A., but chef Josh Gil and partner Matthew Egan have done it. Inspired by Mexico’s rich heritage and bold flavors, Mírame provides an immersive and uniquely unexpected dining experience, one that honors the beauty of Mexican culture. It’s chilled out for the 90210 in a Matt Winter-designed space that features a bar covered in 200-year-old reclaimed tiles and a striking mural by famed Mexico City artist Jorge Tellaeche. It’s unfussy and authentic, the perfect spot to while away an evening with one of many Mexican distillates that extend far beyond tequila, showcasing the subtleties and intricacies of, most notably, mezcal, as well as an extensive list of Mexican wines from regions such as Baja’s Valle De Guadalupe. With Gil at the helm, roving around the restaurant looking like a modern-day guru in black robes, the fare goes beyond tacos and tamales. He uses pure, locally sourced ingredients to really highlight his spin on tradition with such creations as masa made from heirloom organic corn and salmon-skin chicharron with fermented garlic aioli.
419 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills; mirame.la

Mirame
Salmon Skin Chicharron

Photo Credit: Natalie Garst

HORSES

Horses Photo Credit: Lucky Tennyson

Longstanding haunt the Pikey is gone, but its replacement, Horses, is a welcome addition to Sunset Boulevard. One will not, in fact, find actual horses at the venue, but the name is inspired by its pre-Pikey past as the Ye Coach & Horses, a longtime bar and hideout for celebrities. It retains that vibe and some of its OG accoutrements — such as 1930s-era moldings, its signature red booths and tiled flooring — but this latest incarnation is vastly different, cooler, more refined than its predecessor, a spot where one could easily imagine Quentin Tarantino and Tim Roth writing scenes for Pulp Fiction (which they did do here). But although it respectfully nods to its past in its many different forms, Horses does its own thing. There are color-soaked canvases by artist Kacper Abolik draped on the walls and a menu from Will Aghajanian of Per Se and Liz Johnson (both James Beard Best New Chef nominees) that focuses on California-friendly cuisine — the swordfish brochette with fork-crushed chickpeas and melted tomato, as well as the champagne gelée with jersey cream, are standouts. The beverage program, as can be expected, includes modern takes on classic cocktails. Don’t leave without trying the John Collins, a mixture of Earl Grey vodka with peach, lemon and honey, and the Horses Vesper: gin infused with fig leaf, vodka and Lillet Blanc.
7617 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles; horsesla.com

Horses
Champagne Gelee with Jersey Cream

Photo Credit: Lucky Tennyson

SPAGO L’EXTERIEUR

Spago L’Exterieur Photo Credit: Eric Denq / Spago Beverly Hills

Wolfgang Puck has always brought innovation to the culinary world; from the open-kitchen concept to his signature salmon pizza, the Austrian chef has been the master of adapting and evolving the fine dining experience. Throughout the pandemic, he continually found unique ways to bring his “Spago Experience” to home takeout. Now he makes it possible for his guests to feel comfortable and safe dining in — by letting them dine outside.  His newest concept was created to combat the “outdoor dining only” restriction in Los Angeles (which has since lifted, but could always be brought back during the pandemic-era) by building an outdoor dining experience at his flagship Spago location in Beverly Hills. The space includes slotted walls, separate vented semiprivate seating areas, a cocktail lounge and a welcoming lobby, all covered by a large tent with massive archways. The structure is modular and allows each section of space to evolve as dining restrictions slowly lift. The best part: Spago L’Exterieur still features all of that glorious Spago cuisine we know and love.
176 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills; wolfgangpuck.com/dining/spago

Spago L’Exterieur Photo Credit: Eric Denq / Spago Beverly Hills

WINSTON HOUSE

Winston HousePhoto Credit: Local Los Angeles

A modern-day supper club — albeit in Venice Beach (read: too cool for school) — is the attraction of the hour on the Westside, in the former home of the St. Mark’s Jazz Club. The concept, which originally began as a weekly concert series in co-owner Corey McGuire’s live/work loft on Electric Avenue, has grown into a grassroots movement to bring more live music to Venice. And these are truly A-list acts, like Justin Bieber, Ed Sheeran, Billie Eilish, Janelle Monáe and A$AP Ferg. On any given night, guests may experience surprise performances by tomorrow’s next big names or well-known international headliners. It’s a perfect space for those singing for their supper and those who are simply watching the magic happen. Winston House is the result of a collaboration between Michael Baker and Bridget Rynne that was inspired by McGuire’s home, Wes Anderson films, and, yes, also traditional supper clubs to create an intimate, interesting venue. But let’s not forget the food: executive chef Jared Dowling (the Fat Radish and Habitas) serves up an elevated approach to bar fare, nostalgic yet fancy British comfort food such as shrimp toast with a maple chili glaze and cheese balls with Gruyere, oaxaca cheese and truffle aioli. Beverage director Dave Purcell’s cocktail program of familiar classics with a modern twist — like a Baybreeze with vodka, blueberry, pineapple-vanilla, blanco vermouth, lime and soda — is the perfect accompaniment.
23 Windward Ave, Venice; winstonhouse.com

Winston HousePhoto Credit: Local Los Angeles

TATEL

 Tatel Photo Credit: Tatel Restaurants

Spain’s infamous Tatel has finally landed in the U.S., and it’s calling Beverly Hills home. This is a restaurant backed by big names, so you’d better believe it’s good. Its partners include none other than tennis pro Rafael Nadal, along with Manuel Campos Guallar and Abel Matutes Prats, with investors like soccer king Cristiano Ronaldo and former NBA star Pau Gasol. Like its sister properties in Madid and Ibiza, Tatel is defined by wide spaces, large windows, terraces and a characteristic bar inspired by the Roaring ’20s, or “Los Dorados 1920s.” The space uniquely features select raw materials, unadorned and joined with classic techniques and innovative touches. There’s an outstanding winery and bar that features hundreds of wines and spirits, including some of the most exclusive in the world. The gastronomic concept — quintessential Spanish recipes with a Mediterranean twist using fresh, organic and locally sourced ingredients, crafted by Michelin-starred chef Luigi Fineo — is closely connected to music; there will be live shows every day of the week.
453 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills; tatelrestaurants.com/beverly-hills

Tatel
Arroz carabinero

Photo Credit: Tatel Restaurants

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