How Christian Juul Nielsen Has Updated Hervé Léger For The New Era Of Stylish Women

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hervé Léger With just over a year under his belt as Creative Director at Hervé Léger, Pre-Fall 2020 marks Christian Juul Nielsen’s fifth collection with the brand. The Hervé Léger bandage dress had become famous as it achieved peak red carpet fashion status in the early 2000s with everyone from Victoria Beckham to Taylor Swift taking on the body-con bandage moment. Under Juul Nielsen, Hervé Léger is experiencing fresh takes on the house codes and counts Bella Hadid, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Cardi B among supporters of the brand. Haute Living caught up with Juul Nielsen at Hervé Léger’s Pre-Fall 2020 preview to find out how he’s been able to refresh the brand for the new era of stylish women.

”Less bondage and more bandage,” said Juul Nielsen as he walked through his latest collection of dresses, jumpsuits, and separates. His years in couture vividly imbued the foundations of the brand. “When I worked for [John] Galliano at Dior, I did a lot of draping and working on the [forms]. Whereas when I worked for Raf Simmons, there was a lot more researching into modernity and I’ve used both of things in my job today.”

“Normally, when I design I imagine someone working—whether its for charity, or maybe in a gallery. It’s interesting to dress a woman that has a full busy day and finding ways she can be dressed from day to dinner. I love that whole idea of ‘busy lifestyle.'” Some of the particularly striking pieces from the collection are fashioned from disco knit, which is made using a technique composed of heat-pressed lurex that creates a shimmering real-life Instagram filter effect. Of similar material, another dress with an earthy green hue shimmers with its metallic bandage detail appearing as delicate armor.

On what is the biggest challenge he faces designing for the Hervé Léger woman, Juul Nielsen says, “Bandage dresses have survived through a lot of years because of what the dresses can do, and my big challenge is to make these styles look modern, which is why I’ve added a lot of knitting techniques that I mix in with the bandage and some oversized pieces.” Indeed, some of the most refreshing aspects of the collection can be found in the subtle sex appeal of the boxy knits and fabric play.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hervé Léger Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hervé Léger Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hervé Léger Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hervé Léger Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hervé Léger