Anthony Vaccarello Turns the House Icons to Gold at Paris Fashion Week for the Saint Laurent Summer 2027 Collection

Anthony Vaccarello presented the Saint Laurent Women’s Summer 2027 collection during Paris Fashion Week. The show took place at the Trocadéro in Paris on September 29, 2026. Its story rests on a single color, gold. In fact, the creative director gilded the house’s most iconic pieces before closing in black.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent

Gold has a long history with the house. After all, Yves Saint Laurent himself adored it. “I love gold, it’s a magical color,” he once said. “When reflecting a woman, it’s the color of the sun.” For Vaccarello, however, the color opens a fresh study of repetition. This time, the repetition isn’t about silhouette.

Instead, Vaccarello treats gold as a force that transforms everything it touches. The shades range from deep, pale and burnished gold to Byzantine, Renaissance and Art Deco gold. There is even a modernist, almost Brutalist version. Rather than simply accenting each look, the color envelops it from head to toe, by day and by night.

The wardrobe reads like a greatest-hits edit. First come the archetypes of Monsieur Saint Laurent’s era: sahariennes, trenches, blouses and wrap skirts. Then come the house classics Vaccarello invented, including strong-shouldered coats, voluminous blousons and short, precise suits edged with swathes of fur. Together, they recast the house’s golden age for today.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent

Meanwhile, the fabrics make every shade look new. Vaccarello works in lamé, organza, guipure lace, mousseline, brocade and jacquard. He also uses metallic cotton and latex coated in gold leaf. The embroideries, jewelling and fabric manipulation recall haute couture. Still, this intricate, artisanal work exists for the women of today.

Accessories carry the gold just as far. For example, earrings arrive as monumental, jeweled filigree. Shoes, meanwhile, use gilded metallic chains and rest on twisting snake heels. That detail captures a very Saint Laurent idea, a frisson of seductive danger. As a result, the shoes may be the season’s most covetable pieces.

In the final moments, gold gives way to black. Where gold reflects the light, black absorbs it. A velvet suit with jewel buttons is pure YSL, of course. Yet the closing trio of black evening dresses, shaped like nimbus clouds, owns the ending. Their free and spirited construction also nods to Vaccarello’s Belgian roots.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Saint Laurent

“A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held,” Vaccarello said in the collection’s notes. “What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains.” Ultimately, that line explains the whole show. It celebrates brilliance and its fleeting nature at once. Then the black finale lands the point with real grace.

Saint Laurent showed its Women’s Summer 2027 collection at the Trocadéro in Paris on September 29, 2026.

For more of Haute Living’s fashion coverage, see how Saint Laurent paired romance with gothic seduction for Spring/Summer 2026 and why Prada’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection is all about the skirt.