Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
After much anticipation, Sabato De Sarno presented his first menswear collection for Gucci, continuing the Ancora narrative that began in September. Replicating the same black box setting from the September debut, which was originally intended to take place in the streets of Brera, but due to weather complications, it was restaged at the last minute inside the Gucci Hub in Milan, it worked as an advantage and allowed for the clothes to be the main focus.
It’s not rare for menswear and womenswear collections to have some cohesion between them, even when presented separately, however, the Fall/Winter 24 menswear collection perfectly mirrors the womenswear Ancora collection that was presented in September for Sabato’s debut, only tailored into menswear.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
Everything from the clothes to the staging — down to an almost identical soundtrack directed by Mark Ronson — was in parallel to the womenswear collection. The opening menswear look was a direct reference to the opening look from the womenswear collection, styled with a pant option rather than mini shorts, with many other, looks walking down the dimly lit runway having a female look that was previously presented in September. This in juxtaposition to the soundtrack’s new addition of the song “Masculinity” by Lucky Love challenges the ideas of masculinity in men’s fashion.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
House icons from the women’s collection are revisited, such as the horsebit loafers, presenting as creepers with a crepe rubber sole, and the classic Jackie bag with the archival snap-hook closure in a larger version, while the silver Marina Chain necklace becomes smaller, and the GG monogram is re-designed with a drop shadow to give a sense of dimension.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
There is a freshness to Sabato de Sarno’s new Gucci that has been setting the tone for his new direction, a complete 180 from what we had been seeing from the house in recent years, opting for more minimalistic design sensibilities, and silhouettes embodying contemporaneity with refinement, becoming essentials that enrich everyday life.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Gucci
At its core, Gucci Ancora is a celebration of freedom, euphoria, pride, and emotional glamour, telling the story of the luxuries of life; small details, memories, light, warmth, gestures, words, sensations. It tells the story of moments that fundamentally bring joy to everyday life.
