A Modern Man’s Timepiece

You can read this article title in two ways—that the Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve is a watch for the modern man, or that it is a modern timepiece, for men. The double meaning is intended because the piece is both. While Carl F. Bucherer produces sober and lasting contemporary designs, the mechanics and philosophy of its watches is anything but standard fare. Those who spend some time with a Carl F. Bucherer timepiece tend to agree that the appeal of the watch is clear.

Almost all of Carl F. Bucherer watches have something mechanically unique about them. Often it is a special function or module on the Swiss movement. A short time ago they developed their own in-house caliber called the A1000. The movement impressed the watch world with its visual design as well as its innovations. Instead of the ultra-conservative style seen in most watches with an in-house caliber, the A1000 has plates decorated in homage to modern devices that, unlike a watch, are powered by electricity. I see the A1000 as the watch equivalent of a circuit board. The A1000 features a very special type of automatic rotor. It sits like a ring around the movement instead of over it. This way you can visually observe the movement through the sapphire caseback window without having half of it obscured by an automatic rotor. The ring moves on a diamond-like carbon-coated plate with maintenance free ceramic ball bearings. The watch also features a unique shock absorber with small spring arms for the escapement, as well as a system that negates the need for re-adjusting the watch for accuracy after it has been initially set.

For 2010, the A1000 movement progresses to the A1002 in this new watch. The movement adds a power reserve indicator to the list of functions, which now sits with the time (with subsidiary seconds dial), big date, and month. Each function is easy to read on the larger-than-expected cushion-style dial, which is actually one of the most masculine cushion-style dials and cases available. The Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve case is 43.75-mm wide and 44.5-mm tall. The bezel is coated with vulcanized rubber, while the case is available in either steel or 18-karat rose gold.

The finishing on the watch is impressive, and high-polished diamond-cut hour markers that match the bold, partially skeletonized hands spice up the conservative look of the case. The strap is soft calfskin leather with a folding and locking deployment clasp. Carl F. Bucherer is a brand propelled by watchmakers and engineers. The lifestyle of the brand is the concept of having a highly functional, top quality, handsome timepiece.

$17,500 in steel; $39,500 in 18-karat rose gold

Ariel Adams is Haute Living’s watch editor.
Read more of his expert reviews of luxury timepieces
on his website www.ablogtoread.com.