Suiting Up in Duca Sartoria


It is a pleasure to be with all of you again. These past couple of months, I have had people asking me more and more questions about the style and details of a real gentleman’s wardrobe. For this reason, I decided to use this column to discuss some of the new winter and holiday trends to be on the lookout for in the coming months.

First of all, I would like to point out the importance of the fitting again. The custom made suit is a feeling for you and for the people who look at you. No extra material is needed and all the details are perfectly done to fit your unique shape. More and more, you see men wearing very fitted suits, and usually, the shoulder is not over the line of the arm, the chest is pretty tight, and the waist line is pulling in order to be right on the stomach. All of this, together with the little detail of one or two buttons opened on the sleeve of the jacket, is definitely the sign of a custom made suit.

For this season’s trend, I see businessmen moving to two-button suits-perhaps politics is helping to fuel that trend, as many D.C. politicians wear only two-button styles. Although I have to admit that, for myself, I always choose a three-button suit, I believe that every man should have his own style. My body structure just looks best with the three buttons.

The details are important, so I recommend a small-patterned crisp white shirt and a nice pair of shiny shoes to complete the ideal look for a long night out.

The return of the three-piece suit is another big element of this fall/winter season. Those individuals who are happy to wear the suit and tie, and those who wear it all the time, are now far more likely to pair it with a vest, instantly creating a more formal and sharper look. The vest is always very sleek and sexy; it defines your body more, and there is no doubt that it is a power statement. The man who wears the vest knows this, and you can see the pleasure of going around and being noticed reflected on the man’s face, in his stride, and in the way he carries himself. The three-piece suit is powerful, and I have found that the color that has the most success is gray. The tone doesn’t matter: medium gray, dark gray, or dark charcoal-gray is always good.

While stripes on gray suits are always a good choice, the classic chalk stripes are confined to a business environment. On the other hand, more colorful stripes and lines, such as those in a deep purple or strong red, denote a richer look that is not only for board meetings but can also be worn for less formal occasions.

For the holiday season, when formal events abound, the tuxedo no longer means a boring black tie. Blue tuxedos are sign of an evolved choice, and blue velvet tuxedos are definitely trendier but still classic. When you dare to don a burgundy velvet jacket (as I sometimes do), wear it with classic black tuxedo pants, and I assure you that people will take note. As always, the details are important, so I recommend a small-patterned crisp white shirt and a nice pair of shiny shoes to complete the ideal look for a long night out.

To ward off the cold while wearing your tuxedo, there is only one choice: a beautiful herringbone gray cashmere coat. The light three-quarter cashmere coat with velvet collar and a nice back belt is the ideal final touch for any high-class attire. But, of course, it must be worn with a huge cashmere scarf.

For the rest of the day, opt for the same short-cut cashmere fabric coat, but with big patterns of browns and blues for a sportier look. Basically, the fabric once used for country jackets is now the material of choice for intriguing coats. In this case, just two buttons in the center vent will showcase the small, custom made details.

Now, let’s discuss the blazer. I am so excited that it is finally becoming a must. A blue blazer with very colorful lining, contrasting brown buttons, and an under collar in a bright color is the new uniform of the night. Pair it with your jeans, with a nice camel color pair of winter cotton pants, or, once again, with a nice gray pair of pants, and you’re ready to roll. Colorful shirts and an extensive usage of colorful accessories such as scarves or pocket squares make this the perfect everyday and weekend look.

And since it always comes down to the details, let me spend a few words on an exclusive piece of garment not everyone will even see: the super boxer, which is one of Duca Sartoria’s signature products. It is made from the finest shirt material, complete with your personal monogram. The inside has a special support that will make the boxer just as comfortable as a brief, but far more appealing. It is delivered in a little pouch made with the same fabric that becomes very handy for iPods or accessories like phone chargers or the like.

These items are all available at Duca Sartoria, so feel free to come down-I am more than happy to discuss all of these looks and more. I look forward to meeting you.

Happy Holidays!
Ciao, M@X
Duca Sartoria Atelier New York
425 Madison Avenue Suite 1903
New York, NY 10017