All photos via Moschino
As previously reported, Jeremy Scott introduced his Moschino Spring 2016 menswear collection at Pitti Uomo; the first time the designer has shown a collection for the Italian fashion house in Italy since he took over as creative director.
Pitti Uomo’s aesthetic is still rather traditional. Men in extremely luxurious suits usually maintain a strong presence in photographer Tommy Ton’s Pitti street style photos. But this is certainly changing, evidenced last year by Pitti selecting New York genderless street wear brand Hood by Air as its guest of honor, and this year with Scott’s Moschino visions.
Scott did a fantastic job at marrying together the sensible aesthetic of Pitti and the anything-goes moroseness of Moschino. Compared to other Moschino by Jeremy Scott presentations, there were some utterly wearable pieces strewn throughout the collection. Ostentatious? Yes. Ridiculous? Definitely not.
Now that the hype surrounding Scott’s signing to Moschino has dimmed a bit, the designer can really focus less on spectacle (though his flair for the dramatic certainly isn’t going anywhere) and more on beautiful clothes.
This is not to say that the collection was safe. On the contrary, as always with Scott’s collections there has been criticism of the kitschy aesthetic he is known for, Style.com even going as far as to call it “clownish.” Moschino by Jeremy Scott presents a multitude of cultural touchstones as influences: Valentino Rossi, Hendrix, Fred Astaire, Saturday Night Fever, 2001: A Space Odyssey, Prince, etc.. Indeed one might hope a designer can focus on one idea to present the collection around that idea. But Scott doesn’t care what you think. There are few designers on earth who are as attuned to what their customers want to wear more than Scott. He designs for those that are already converted. That conviction to his vision is the most admirable thing about Designer.
But like few collections before it, there were pieces that might be at home in anybody’s wardrobe: the black Jacquard suits, the solid black leather jacket, the floral print shorts, and all the women’s peices were all fairly digestible. The collection moved from look to look rather suddenly, without much transition between the ideas. But that’s part of the fun with Moschino I suppose.
As with most Scott shows, this one was pretty star-studded: Katy Perry, A$AP Rocky, artist and filmmaker Francesco Vezzoli, L’uomo Vogue fashion editor Robert Rabensteiner, and Actor/jewelry designer Waris Ahluwalia were all in attendance for the show and the after party. The after party was DJ’d by fashion’s favorite iconoclast DJ Michel Gaubert.