Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
What are the qualities that make a wine bar great? First, an interesting and excellent selection of wine, preferably one that changes frequently, so that regular customers are encouraged to try new things. Second, an atmosphere that is cozy, warm, and inviting—with intimate nooks and cranies. It must be a space that is ideal for lingering over a compelling conversation.
Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
A delicious menu of food, specifically dishes that pair well with wine and are easy to share, is a prerequisite. Friendly, welcoming, and knowledgeable staff that is not snobby or pretentious is also a crucial quality. Educational elements like seminars, winemaker events, and exotic tastings are an added bonus. A superb selection of bottles to take home is another plus. If you’re scratching your head, wondering where such a wine bar exists, allow me to assure that it does. Specifically at Compline, a charming new destination in downtown Napa.
Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
The wine bar opened last fall and has quietly and quickly become a favorite of locals, new and old. Compline is the brainchild of Ryan Stetins, a former wine director at Charlie Trotter, and Matt Stamp, a master sommelier who worked at the French Laundry, so the young duo know a thing or two about hospitality and wine. “We wanted to create someplace we wanted to go—a laid-back place to drink cool wines,” Stetins explains. “As we refined the concept, Compline evolved into what it is today: A restaurant and wine bar, bottle shop, and center for wine education. But the part about drinking kick ass-wines in a beautiful space? That’s never changed.”
Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
Compline’s 300-bottle wine list is a world tour of varietals including wine that celebrates the Napa Valley and other beloved regions from across the globe. The retail wine selection is a more curated list with 100 wines, featuring many of Stamp and Stetins’ personal favorites. “Our wine bar list has plenty of local finds, as well as a generous collection of other domestic and international bottles,” says Stamp. “Our retail is really designed for both locals and visitors hunting for new finds, new grapes, and new experiences beyond our little corner of the world.” The for-sale bottles are moderately priced between $15-30. This is on purpose—Stamp and Stetins want their clients to be able to try as many wines as possible and to learn as much as they can.
Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
Education is Stamp’s jam, he personally teaches all of the classes at Compline. Every other Monday, he hosts a 90-minute seminar that explores a new corner of the wine world such as the white wines of Austria and Ribera del Duero. The event, which is geared to industry professionals and serious wine students, consists of a lecture, discussion, and tasting of eight wines.
Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
On Friday and Saturdays, Stamp teaches a more basic class meant to jumpstart one’s interest in wine knowledge. A selection of local wines are tasted and Stamp talks you through the structure, body, tannin, acid, aromas, and all the nuances that go into winemaking. Sunday nights there is a fun blind tasting menu where aficionados can taste four different wines and try to figure out what it is they’re drinking.
Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
As for the food, chef Yancy Windsperger oversees the kitchen. Compared to the wine list, the menu feels minimalist, but there is something for everyone and everything is scrumptious. There are snacks like duck fat fries and crudités. Pillowy and light classic gougeres are covered in a dusting of freshly shaved cheese. Starters include a savory medley of mushrooms with sunny-side up egg, chicken thighs with apple mustard, and farm vegetable salad.
Main courses are crowd-pleasing and traditional. There’s a New York strip steak for two with pureed cauliflower, grilled whole fish for two, braised pork, half chicken, and a cheeseburger. Nightly specials are also offered, so be sure to check with your waiter. On one recent visit Winsperger served a sensational ricotta gnudi coated in a flavorful tomato sauce. Desserts are simple, but luscious—think chocolate brownie with mint and sweet cream or buttermilk panna cotta with huckleberry compote.
Photo Credit: Kali Kirschman
With Compline, Stetins and Stamp achieve what many people attempt to do and fail. They’ve created the ideal wine bar, one worth visiting over and over again.
