It’s only been four seasons of couture collections since Diego Della Valle’s Schiaparelli’s surrealist label took to the runways, but they are already on their second designer. Bertrand Guyon’s appointment was announced this week after a few months of speculation. Mr. Guyon is a true couturier with stints at Givenchy, Christian Lacroix and Valentino.
Haute Couture is a specialized world with strict guidelines set forth by the “Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.” Its a rarified few who have the skill and training to have the Haute Couture training and allowed the moniker of couturier, of which Mr Guyon is one. He has taken the reins from Marco Zanini whose homage-like shows have been well received for their creativity with surrealist hats and other quirky elements that relate directly to Elsa Schiaparelli’s past designs. It’s possible that his homage went too far without giving the collection a modern relevance. In any case Zanini is out and Guyon starts his new gig.
Mr. Zanini’s departure was announced in WWD in November of 2014. The company line was that the design would be undertaken by a “team” which left most critics feeling the future of the label would suffer, as reported by style.com.
Mr Guyon will design from Schiaparelli’s historic couture house at 21 Place Vendome in Paris. Schiaparelli is known for her “shocking pink” collections inspired by collaborations and friendship with Salvador Dali in the 1930’s and 40’s. The bright pink hue she is known for was emblazoned on the runway and walls for the January runway show linking the past to the present. It will be interesting to see what’s next for this storied fashion house.