Restaurant Of The Week: Roux At The Landau

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Restaurants come and go in the capital, but the renamed Roux at the Landau has remained a firm fixture on London’s dining scene since its launch back in 1865.

Step inside the handsome high ceilinged oval dining room – designed by the late, great David Collins (the man behind the interiors of some of London’s most loved restaurants and bars including Claridge’s Bar, The Connaught’s bar, Nobu Berkeley, J Sheekey and The Wolseley) and it’s not hard to see why.

The overall appeal of the place is pretty big – all oval windows , elegant banquettes, silver plates and billowing white tablecloths. As for the food, diners get to choose from a selection of fabulous French inspired dishes – the brainchild of chef Chris King, a protégé  of Albert and Michel Roux Jr  – all of which are beautifully presented. Our meal began with the sommelier pouring us a glass of Roux champagne (“the best bubbly I have ever had” declared our dining companion after just one sip) and talking us through the extensive international wine list, while we waited for our starters to arrive.

Seared diver caught scallops, shellfish emulsion, cauliflower and toasted seeds made for a sensational starter while the vegetarian in our party, plumped for the  intriguing sounding Salsify dish and was richly rewarded. Mains were similarly top draw: Roast Pyrenean milk fed lamb (served with truffled ‘txistorra’ creamed flageolet beans) cooked to pink perfection sizzled with five star class, while a generous portion of Cepe mushroom, marjoram and pine nut cavatelli proved a simple masterpiece that left us hankering for more.


Desserts are a further strong point, so do save room. Yorkshire rhubarb and custard soufflé served with rhubarb sherry sorbet was surprisingly light and full of flavour and the unusual favours of Home made ice creams (Muscovado and Amaretto anyone?) also ensured a joyful finish for those who are too full for a ‘proper’ pudding.

Elsewhere service is old school and, as such, utterly professional – restaurant manager, Franco Becci was charm personified. Sure prices can inevitably be as high as The Shard but who’s counting? For exceptional food in an elegant setting, head here.

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