While taste is quite personal, it seems like everybody universally loves Pubbelly. This would explain their meteoric rise and explosion of restaurant openings. But can they keep the quality up? Are they getting too diluted? After an awesome, gut busting meal at L’echon, their newest restaurant, the answers are yes and no (respectively). So, chalk another one up to the “Pubbelly Boys” and their chef, Jose Mendin.
While the hidden-in-plain-sight location inside of the Hilton Cabana Miami Beach, on a quiet, northern stretch of Collins Avenue does seem like a departure for the hip restaurant group, it’s really not. After all, Sunset Harbor wasn’t much to write home about until Pubbelly opened their first location there, ostensibly sparking the entire neighborhood to go way, way, way beyond Publix. There is some speculation the same may happen with “North Beach” as they are calling it. While this may sound like a stretch, just remember restaurants almost always lead the way to any neighborhoods renaissance.
And if there was something worthy of leading a charge for change, it would be the hot, crusty French bread that arrives before anything else. Or it could be the earthy Tagliatelle served up with wild mushrooms and black truffles? Perhaps it was the simple the Tarte de Jambon, which reminds everyone how good and simple real French food can be. Of course, it’s worth getting a bit more complicated and commanding dishes like the Confit de Canard or the Cochon de Lait served with summer squash remoulade and mustard sherry jus. There are even three types of bread to order: Country Toast served with olive oil and sea salt, Pan con Tomate with garlic and tomatoes and Foie Nutella, which is every bit as decadent as it sounds. That’s right — mousse of duck liver served with candied hazelnuts.
Desserts are stellar too as is the service. Our only advice is to come prepped for some pretty strong ac with sweaters, coats and boots for all but the strongest polar bears. As we head towards fall, that will mean dining on the terrace might be your best bet. After all, what could be better than salty ocean breezes and French food from Miami’s coolest restaurant group?