We speak with the Francesco Pesci, the CEO of renowned Italian menswear brand Brioni on the inspiration behind the brand, the concept of Made-in-Italy and the potential of Dubai.
How does Brioni continue to represent the idea and craftsmanship for the Made-in-Italy brand?
Since Brioni was founded 1945, we have always followed Italian tailoring traditions. All of our garments are made by hand using the best instruments and materials and which later undergo severe quality controls. We have always used only the finest fabrics in the world exclusive to Brioni and we consider our master tailors to be ambassadors for Brioni excellence and Italian attention to heritage and craftsmanship.
What is the relevance of the fabrics used within a Brioni garment? From where do you source your fabrics?
We use only the finest fabrics to create our garments to the point where Brioni even acts as a tester for the best fabric suppliers which are mainly Italian but also at times English. About 95 per cent of our fabrics are exclusive to Brioni, both in terms of patterns and materials, and around 90 per cent are from the Biella district in Italy. We source the rest from the UK, Ireland and New Zealand. That said, the finest material in terms of fibers can have different origins; the area of Tibet and Nepal is renowned for cashmere; Australia and New Zealand are known for wool; the Andean region is the place to source very exclusive fibers such as vicuna and guanaco, and for shirts, the best cotton is still found in Egypt.
Tell me about your “Su Misura” process. What do you go through in order to make a bespoke suit for a client?
The process by which we create a Su Misura suit is the same as making a ready-to-wear suit. We use the same steps, same hands and same Brioni standards, but the most important difference is to be found in the starting point – the description file of every single piece. In a ready-to-wear suit, the measurements are set and depend on the model, while in a Su Misura suit each measurement is personalized. A Su Misura garment is made “on an individual, by an individual and for an individual”, in-line with his needs and proportions, and may be customized with an endless number of details. It enables our clients to have utmost comfort when wearing our suits as well as show off their individual sense of style. Our Su Misura service is the quintessence of exclusivity.
Brioni continues to be one of the most sought after and prestigious names in Men’s fashion. How do you deal with tides of an increasingly competitive market?
Brioni is elegance beyond fashion. We work to offer year-by-year the best quality to our client, reiterating the excellence that has always characterized Brioni’s history. I can proudly state that craftsmanship is our strength which we celebrate continuously with our Su Misura service and through our consistently innovative collections. It should be remembered that it was Brioni in 1952 that first showed men on the catwalk at Palazzo Pitti in Florence!
There is a lack of fine tailor-made suits in the UAE. What are the strengths and weaknesses that you see for men’s fashion in the Dubai market?
I don’t entirely agree. The Arabic gentlemen has a perception of style which differs from his European counterpart. Even so, the perception of quality is completely the same. Dubai is one of the most important markets for Brioni to be present; we are proud to be located in a city which is constantly evolving. I believe that Dubai is going to be to be an even greater retail capital for the region. We are very much pleased which the Arab gentleman enjoy the exclusiveness and elegance of our garments.
What prompted your interest in the Middle Eastern retail market? How do you see your future for Brioni within the region?
The current importance of this market. We have just opened our first boutique in Riyadh and we are very focused on strengthening our presence in the Middle East. In the Middle East and internationally, Brioni needs to remain loyal to its reputation and preserve its much envied handcrafting skills in tailored clothing. Brioni also aims to become an icon for men’s elegance in all other product categories which can be placed under the definition of ‘upper casual’ such as leather accessories and shoes. We have great hopes for this market and are very happy to finally be in Dubai!
Brioni is located at The Dubai Mall, +971 44341418 and at the Radisson SAS Shopping Center in Deira, Bur Dubai, +971 42288110.