Perla
24 Minetta Lane, near Sixth Avenue
Contemporary Italian, Recently Opened, Notable Chef, Buzzing, Rustic
Gabe Stulman, the restaurateur behind Fedora, Jeffrey’s Grocery and Joseph Leonard, opened his newest venture Perla last week. Located on Minetta Lane, Perla is warm and inviting neighborhood spot that features a semi-open kitchen with wood-burning oven, red leather banquettes, a marble cocktail bar and charcuterie counter with approximately 12 additional bar stools.
Interesting art and black and white photographs from the 70s adorn the exposed brick walls. The intimate and rustic atmosphere makes it an ideal spot for a date or a group of close friends. There is definitely a neighborhood vibe, which is something Stulman aims to achieve in all of his restaurants.
The restaurant offers a combination of contemporary and traditional Italian fare. Michael Toscano, the former chef of Eataly’s acclaimed Manzo, is at the helm in the kitchen. It is apparent that chef Toscano took great care in creating an offering that is both innovative and comforting.
I started with foie gras tramezzini (with pistachio and cherry; described as a peanut butter and jelly sandwich the way your mom used to make – complete with the crusts cut off!). The combination of the ridiculously savory foie gras with the sweet layer of cherry and plush bread was heavenly.
Next were two antipasti – the Brussels sprouts with black truffle and grilled octopus with oven roasted tomatoes and eggplant – both were good, but there are other antipasti that are definitely worth trying.
I then moved onto the cavatelli with egg and pancetta – super rich and delicious. We rounded out the meal with a monkfish with artichokes and black truffle vinaigrette – lush, decadent and super satisfying.
I encourage guests to discuss the menu with their waiter – all of the servers are extremely knowledgeable and are able to provide personal recommendations along with detailed descriptions of all menu items.
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