With an eclectic front-row of Samuel L. Jackson, Orlando Magic’s Dwight Howard (who made quite the rounds this fashion season), Boardwalk Empire’s Michael Pitt, and Peaches Geldof—at the ready— designer Yohji Yamamoto and sport behemoth adidas presented the spring/summer 2012 collection of collaborative label Y-3, at 82 Mercer Street on September 11.
The theme this season paid homage to London’s hosting of the upcoming 2012 Summer Olympic games. Y-3’s excursion in to realms of British style and the Olympics resulted in updates of the iconic of Union Jack, English checks and plaids, graphic Mod-era prints, “rough-and-tumble workwear,” and champion metallics; all dramatized by Yamamoto’s avant-garde and somber, romantic twist. And as a choice army of models paraded down the runway to the music of Tokio Hotel and Miyavi, there was plenty to take in:
Much of women’s offerings blended street wear with fitted leather vests, overflowing ruffles and detailing along the seams, and tailored blazers. Materials were layered in voluminous proportions on button-down shirtdresses, airy skirts and shorts, and spectacular jackets. Hues ranged from autumn-leaf plaids, army green, and plenty of Yamamoto black. The designer also played with sheer fabrics and mesh on the tops, which created plenty of peek-a-boo sex appeal. “The collection placed an emphasis on modularity, with many pieces being convertible from short to long, symmetrical to asymmetrical, and so on,” a Y-3 statement declared.
For the men, looks honed in on Yamamoto’s classic tailoring in sportive shirts, coats, and blazers. Especially successful was a series of blazers, pants, and shorts in black and white checkers. The Y-3 signature juxtaposition of multiple fabrics also worked well on polos, an oversize canvas trench coat, and a tracksuit.
Per usual, the label introduced new innovative fabrics, such as a thin and lightweight, breathable nylon and a bonded three-layer waterproof jersey.
The collection’s footwear ran the gamut, both in terms of palette and style. Adidas’ original shell toe design is back. One shoe had bungee-cord detailing in vibrant tones of scarlet and plum over white. Another interesting approach was the Union Jack scuba shoe, pulling the theme back to the forefront. But the best option had to be the women’s Japanese cut-out platform in neoprene and leather, resembling a techno figure skate. Another reason to rejoice: Y-3’s popular running shoe, The Decade, will be reissued for 2012 in Olympic gold, silver, and bronze. The first full line of eyewear additionally made it’s début on the runway, in the form of graphic shapes and rubberized black frames in shades of black, white, and orange.
Sadly not in attendance at this September’s showing, Yamamoto commented in a statement: “To me, London style is a funky elegance… It’s not just downtown. It’s not just punk. It’s also polished. We tried to capture that.”
And captured it did— Y-3’s collection was as good as an Olympic victory.