Perpetual calendar watches are a curious thing. They extend the concept of telling the time to greater scales. Minutes and hours turn to days, weeks, months, and even years-with such watches providing measures of these socially constructed references. The term “perpetual calendar” refers to any watch movement that has a calendar capable of adjusting for leap years. Less complicated forms are the “annual calendar,” and the least complex form being the “monthly calendar” (which needs to be adjusted each time a month is not 31 days in length).
Daniel Roth recently released the Athys 2134 timepiece, with this Athys Perpetual Calendar being more complex and extending the concept by adding a perpetual calendar complication. The “2134” part of the name refers to the future date when the moon phase indicator needs to be adjusted. Daniel Roth has created one of the only ultra accurate moon phase complications that considers the precise phases of the moon (which is approximately 29 and a half days in length). The new DR114 automatic mechanical movement inside the watch combines the ultra accurate moon phase indication system with a perpetual calendar, as well as the time. Although the dial is fittingly complex for the decorated and hand assembled movement, the information on the face of the Ayths Perpetual Calendar is laid out logically, and in a manner that is easy to read.
The top of the dial has the moon phase on a gold disc with an applied blue color that matches the blued steel hands all over the dial. The moon phase indicator is easily the thematic highlight of the piece. There are windows on the right and left of the watch for the day of the week and the month. The text is printed on sapphire discs, viewable through the open middle section of the dial where other gears and levers are to be seen. You can also view the vertical engraving work on the movement plate. The bottom portion of the dial is reserved for a large subdial that indicates the date on the outside, and has a smaller inner dial and hand for the indication of the year on the leap year scale. The fourth year indicates an “L” as the leap year.
Aside from the open dial showing views of the movement, Daniel Roth has maintained its classic look for the watch face. Attractive Roman numeral hours are supplemented by Arabic numerals for the minutes scale, while the black on white palette gives the watch dial a high contrast making it easy to see. The signature Daniel Roth case shape comes in 18k red or white gold. Sapphire crystals are placed on both the front and rear of the case. You’ll notice the four small pushers around the case that are used to set the calendar functions should you forget to wear or wind the watch. Daniel Roth places the Athys Perpetual Calendar watch on a simple brown or black alligator strap with matching gold buckle. Price is about $50,000.
1. 18k red or gold case
2. Pushers to adjust or set calendar functions
3. Moon phase indicator
4. Day of the week indicator
5. Month Indicator
6. Subdial shows date on the outside with leap year indicator on the inside
Ariel Adams is the Haute Living Watch Editor and also publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.