I do recommend the following styles; each cut is flattering in its own way, and the wearer will look hot no matter the temperature.
Once again, let me start by saying that it is always a pleasure to be with you. I received a lot of positive feedback about my last column, which addressed the winter season’s trends. As such, I will stick to offering my custom advice regarding “what to wear” in hopes of keeping readers informed about the right products for the right moments.
At this time, due to the unrelenting cold weather, a gentleman’s custom coat is certainly the right product. Let’s start with the basics. The three, classic styles for a custom coat are: the double-breasted cut; the single-breasted, long version; and the more young and sleek three-quarter length coat. I personally do not recommend the raglan shoulder; I find it to be too big and bulky, and it is definitely not my favorite style this year. However, I do recommend the following styles; each cut is flattering in its own way, and the wearer will look hot no matter the temperature.
The 3C (Chesterfield/Car-Coat)
This style is referred to as the car coat: long enough to cover a blazer but short enough where one can drive a sports car without sitting on it. Shown here is a three-quarter-length coat with a back belt. The buttons on the center vent can be folded and will stay in position thanks to an invisible button system, which allows the coat to be shortened from its original length.
Classic Three-Quarter-Length Coat
This is my favorite style when it comes to custom coats. It is young and comfortable yet chic, and it always makes the right statement. As for fabric, I recommend using the Super 180’S Waterproof System or a light cashmere. The cut lends itself to different color options, and virtually every option is a good call. Color can be a classic blue herring bone or a camel, or the style also looks stunning in a varying saddle or strong check. At Duca Sartoria, we are firm believers that it is all about the details, the back collar can contrast with monograms, creating the perfect final look.
I refer to this style as my “season’s surprise.” I was never a big fan of the double-breasted style, but recently, a distinguished gentleman and friend ordered a double-breasted short coat in brown, super fine cashmere with blue lining. His monogram was done in real gold thread, and the effect was stunning. The usual finishing of back belt and buttons on the vent made for a very special coat for a special client, and I became a fan of the style. The right touches can make it feel very “now.”
Regardless of cut, I highly recommend opting for vicuña fabric lined with mink. In our store in Moscow, it is still the best seller. This is in part because of the frigid weather, but also because the city seems to be recession proof. Using these fabrics results in a $60,000 coat. In New York, that is the same price of a down payment for a sports car, so many of our clients would rather opt for the car and a nice linen jacket that will be perfect for a drive to the Hamptons. In that vein, we will discuss those pieces in the next column.